November, 2012:

My DIY 50 ¢ent Solutions

MISSISSAUGA, ON — Further testing and research have led to some additional modifications designed to enhance the recreational and touring capabilities of “Mia Bella” — my Bacchetta “Bella” ATT LWB recumbent.

CLICK PHOTOS FOR ENLARGED VIEW

As before, I opted for simple solutions — my “DIY 50 ¢ent solutions” — with the same parameters:

1. When possible, use accessories from Diamond Frame Bikes
   (e.g. racks, handle bar bag)
2. Wherever possible, use lightweight off-the-shelf materials
   (e.g. aluminium flatbar, grommets)

Materials,Tools & Aptitude:

1. Extruded, tempered, aluminium flatbar (1×1/8-inch)
2. Coroplast cut-offs
3. Rubber mat
4. Assorted web straps with clip-buckles, elastic band
5. Tape measure, marker, right angle
6. Vise, hacksaw, file and drill (a drill-press is ideal)
7. Grommets & grommet tool
8. Assortment of bolts with nuts, washers, lock washers and the appropriate drivers and wrenches
9. Some mechanical/technical handiness

Accessories Purchased:

1. 2 Duffle Bags (22x12x12-inches)
2. Cyclist Rain Cape

DFB Accessories On Hand (from my 1984 vintage touring and MTB):

1. Handle Bar Bag & Mount
2. Rack Pack

The fender for the 20-inch front wheel, DFB handle bar bag, obligatory under-seat panniers and necessary rain gear for my LWB recumbent called for some additional DIY 50 ¢ent solutions.

MOD 7: Fender Optimization for 20-inch Wheels

Fenders are readily available for 20-inch front wheels, but the rake angle of my LWB recumbent front fork presents two disadvantages with the fender mounted in the standard configuration:

• the leading edge is well back on the wheel which can result in spray blow-back onto the feet, chain ring and electronics
• the trailing edge and mud flap hang very low which can result in the fender hitting (often dislodging the stays and possibly damaging the fender) when negotiating any ledge higher than about 2 inches.   

My DIY 50 ¢ent solution is to install the fender backwards and add a rubber mud flap cut from an old car floor mat.

Reversing the fender puts the leading edge well forward and, with the original mud flap now facing forward, gives added protection from spray blow-back.

Reversing the fender also has the advantage that the fender stay on the disc brake side does not require bending to clear the brake mechanism.

With the fender trailing edge now some 9 inches above the road, the flexible mud flap permits negotiating substantial ledges without risk of dislodging or damaging the fender.

If more clearance is desired, re-positioning the fender’s fork attachment tab to the front of the fork would move the new leading edge incrementally forward and the trailing edge correspondingly higher.

MOD 8: DFB Handle Bar Bag Mounted On Seat Back

Handy DFB handle bar bags usually come with special mounts incorporating practical quick-release clips which can be just as useful when mounted on the back of a recumbent seat.

My DIY 50 ¢ent solution is a vertical hold-down strap looped around the seat back’s middle rib to take the place of the DFB handle bar stem normally required to support the bag.

MOD 9: Under-Seat Panniers

No recumbent configuration for long-haul touring is complete without under-seat panniers which substantially increase load volume capacity and lower the center of gravity when loaded.

However, specialized recumbent panniers are not available at every bike shop and they tend to be relatively pricey.

My DIY 50 ¢ent solution is two standard duffle bags (e.g. @$30 new), each mounted on the Lo-rider Rack by means of 2 bolts with wing nuts.

Grommets re-inforce the bag fabric which is clamped between two 1×1/8-inch aluminium flatbars, together with the trimmed and folded coroplast insert which forms the wall and floor of the pannier.

Front snub- along with mid- and rear-support straps stabilize the duffle bag on the rack and frame. A third strap (not shown) can be used to secure the bag against the bottom rail of the rack and/or to compress bag volume. 

Depending on the duffle bag’s zippers, pockets, handles and attachments, various possibilities present themselves for extra support and easy access while riding (e.g. water bottles, snacks, etc.).

As with waterproof panniers, waterproof duffle bags are also an option, although they are more expensive and heavier. The DIY 50 ¢ent solution is to use plastic bags to keep contents dry.  

The Rack Pack completes the re-utilization of all my (1984-vintage) DFB touring accessories.

MOD 10: Rain Cape

Fairings provide a measure of rain protection to the legs, but the seated position on a recumbent leaves most of the rider’s core exposed to precipitation.

My DIY 50 ¢ent solution is to add some grommets and elastics at strategic points along the seam of a standard cyclist rain cape in order to minimize flapping and billowing. The rain cape provides reasonable protection without the moisture build-up and clamminess of rain jacket and pants.

While not tested in monsoon rains, this configuration stood up well in the rain and wind of far-flung Hurricane Sandy remnants which strafed the Toronto area recently. Pooling of water on the cape area stretched between the rider’s horizontal arms has been flagged by some as a potential drawback when using capes on a recumbent, but a periodic flick of the fabric with one hand suffices to avoid excessive build-up.

The only consideration to keep in mind when using a rain cape in this configuration is that, similar to a wind sock, the rider is “locked in” by the rain cape’s attachment points, so the elastics at the wrists together with the brake lever and mid-point attachments on at least one side must be released BEFORE extricating the head and dismounting.

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Thank you to the many people who contribute their time and expertise to improve the cycling experience for those who follow.

Here are a couple of links to the resources I used to get up to speed on the world of “bent” riding:

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com
http://www.bentrideronline.com